October is arguably the most romantic month. If your tastes for romance veer toward tragedy, there is no better season than autumn, at its peak: nature’s swan song climaxing in an opulent palette of the vibrant hues of death and decay. The veil is thin and the air is crisp enough to break out your favourite cashmere. Everyone knows October is prime dressing territory. But in case you need a push, here are some romantic provocations to get your little wheels turning about what you want to wear this season.
Ralph Lauren Russia
Ralph Lauren is basically the Founding Father of fall fashion. He is also the most American of designers, so it only makes sense that he should maintain foreign policy through his collections. Two years after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Lauren found inspiration in 1920s Russia for his Fall 1993 collection, overflowing with sumptuous velvets and dark paisleys, military style jackets and long skirts/dresses paired with tall boots. Not much can be found written about this collection online, but the runway is available to be watched in its entirety on youtube - one highlight being Kate Moss in a pair of sheer silk velvet burnout balloon pants and Balkan coat with high embroidered collar. You can find a beautiful velvet tunic from the collection here if u need.
I recently thrifted this Ungaro silk velvet jacket, the perfect ingredient, and found myself inspired.
For further inspiration, see also: the first designer to reference Russia - Yves Saint Laurent’s 1976 collection Operas Ballets Russes
They Shoot Horses, Don’t They: your alternative to a barn jacket
When Prada sent barn jackets down their Spring 2024 runways, worn insouciantly over gauzy sheer dresses and fringed skirts, I salivated over their novelty. This wore off at the furious pace of the trend cycle when soon every fast fashion brand had their own version. My stubbornness prevented me from giving in to the trend, but I still couldn’t help but long for a piece of outerwear that could add some nonchalant friction to my most Lady outfits. Then, because my angels are always looking out for me, fate united me with my perfect alternative:
Same proportions, same utilitarian pockets and hardy cotton twill, but with some interesting details that make her just different enough to catch my fancy.
She was made by a defunct 90s denim brand so I can’t link a facsimile but in my research I came upon what just might be your perfect alternative: a vintage shooting jacket. I’m no firearm enthusiast myself, but perhaps wearing one could be a useful way to find empathy for some of your more right wing relatives… just in time for the holidays? Or, you know, just adopt it sartorially the way society has the army jacket. It’s unimpeachably cool. Be a chic hypocrite like you’ve always wanted!
There are so many models on etsy and ebay, most of them with sick leather shoulder patches and various strap and flaps. The target shooting versions are half suede half canvas and come in very good colorways! Now here I am talking myself out of buying another jacket…
Renaissance Red Hats
"All my life I’ve pursued the perfect red. I can never get painters to mix it for me. It’s exactly as if I’d said, “I want Rococo with a spot of Gothic in it and a bit of Buddhist temple” – they have no idea what I’m talking about. About the best red is to copy the color of a child’s cap in any Renaissance portrait." - Diana Vreeland, 1984
My guiding light DV was a connoisseur of red, and if she looked to the hats of the Renaissance for inspiration, then so shall I. The boys certainly looked sharp!
I have already rhapsodized about hats here, here and here, so I’ll save my breath convincing you why they are a Very Important Accessory at the moment, but rest assured I was thrilled to find a couple of beautiful vintage toppers on my fall shopping adventures. The chapeau that launched my desire for Renaissance reds is this simple but lovely vintage velvet number by Parisian milliner Fernande Royer.
For styling motivation, I will defer to those same Renaissance portraits. Swaths of fur! Vests! High necklines! A smattering of brooches! A sword? I’m a Renaissance man, and it’s looking like a very Renaissance fall. Some Renaissance reds for you: wool and satin veiled beret; PERFECT pillbox with attached scarf; leather golf cap; and a jaunty little hat that comes cocked just so!
Show me your Renaissance red inspired looks and I promise to do the same. I love you bye!
You know I love a good hat and that red one is gorgeous! And that silk velvet jacket. Perfection.
I…loved this newsletter! Your writing!
I had the same issue with the barn jacket. It would slide into my life ever so perfectly but I just can’t. Not right now. Maybe in 2-3 years my eye will forgive them.